Plaza Serrano, in Palermo Soho
La Floralis Generica, in Recoleta 
Defensa Street in San Telmo, where my school is
Botanical Gardens
Anna, Alex, Robert and me
"Winky Juan" at the asadoI’ve been here for less than 3 weeks?!
Just 19 days ago, I was drowsily staring out the window of my tiny little cab, completely overwhelmed and disoriented as we approached the city center of Buenos Aires. It honestly feels like months ago!
The TEFL course is going great so far. There are 6 of us total, and I love everyone. To sum them up:
Alex Lopes- ½ Portuguese, ½ Swedish. Lives in Nottingham, England (where Robinhood lived!). 32 years old. Such an amazing guy. Speaks 8 languages, 6 of which he’s fluent in (English, Spanish, French, Portuguese, Swedish, and German). Too bad he’s gay!
Anna Raymond- American from Seattle. 20 years old. Super laidback and always happy. Has been in BA for 6 months and is currently dating the guy who taught her Spanish lessons here. She’s been a huge help with advice/info about the city, since she’s been here for a while.
Kelly Huseby- American from Arizona. 27 years old. Very sweet girl. Went to Northwestern and spent 8 years total in Chicago, so we’ve bonded over our beloved Windy City. She’s either going to stay in BA to teach English, or go to Santiago, Chile.
Lori Caldwell- American from Vermont. 34 years old. Absolutely hilarious and so much fun. She plans on using TEFL as a means to travel and live all over the world. Such a warm person and has sort of taken on the “mama” role in the group. She’s either going to teach in France first, or come back to BA. Hoping she comes back!
Robert Ulich- American from Los Angeles. 22 years old. Was extremely shy at first but has completely come out of his shell! Really great guy. He’s still deciding where he wants to go to teach. Fluent in Spanish so will probably stay in South America somewhere.
We’ve all gotten along so well, and it’s like we’re a little family. Not everyone is going to stay in BA when the course is over, which is sad to think about. But, that’s the expat life for ya! The course itself is really challenging. None of us had any idea how LITTLE we all know about our own language. It’s shocking, actually. And most would think that teaching their native language would be easy- HA! Try explaining words like “soul” and “empathetic” to a group of learners from varying countries. I used to think that Spanish grammar was complicated, but English grammar is a whole new can of worms. It’s really been a lot of fun learning about our native language. We also have to give practice lessons a few times a week, and it’s incredibly satisfying to see the students learning English. There are a few students in particular that we all love, because they are just so passionate about learning English. I would have to say my 2 favorites are Wilmer and Antonio; Wilmer is a 23 year-old Colombian who is studying at the University of Buenos Aires, and Antonio is an Italian visiting a friend in BA for a while. Love them!
I’ve also gotten pretty close with Mirka (host mama). While I’m of course learning a lot of Spanish from her, sometimes I wish so badly that I had the words to explain things to her. I also can’t believe she’s 69. She buzzes around the apartment and keeps busy all the time. Did I mention that she’s a yoga teacher, too? Well, she is. Her living room is her official yoga studio, and she teaches classes a few times a week. She told me this morning she’s been teaching yoga for 25 years! 25 years?! I told her that it’s only been popular in the US for the past few years (as far as I know), and she explained that this is because the universe is moving into “Aquario” (??), and that people are therefore becoming more conscious and spiritual. Or something like that. Hence, the yoga fad. She’s highly against hot yoga, which we Americans so love, because she says “it’s not real yoga”. Oh, Mirka. Hearing her on the phone is absolutely hilarious. She talks a million miles an hour and at maximum volume. Her grandchildren stayed here one night this week, and they all speak very good English. They’ve taken it in school since they were very young, and they’re 11 now. I was wearing my UK sweatshirt and asked if they’d ever heard of Kentucky, and they said “No, we haven’t heard of it. Can you show us on a map?” So we busted out one of Mirka’s decade-old encyclopedias and I pointed out where Kentucky was, along with Chicago and New York City. They said their dream was to go to Disneyworld one day, and that they are saving all their money for it. They also talked about how they love Halloween, but that it’s not really celebrated here in Argentina. They said “the kids in America are really lucky that they can trick-or-treat at night without it being dangerous” (Because, while Buenos Aires is certainly a ‘cosmopolitan’ city, it still has many undeniable 3rd world traits). I told them that if they wanted to go trick-or-treating this year, I’d go with them (and bring along a brawny male friend, too). I think this got them really excited.
Two Fridays ago, one of the English students- “Winky Juan”, as we call him (he winks after everything he says)- invited all of us back to his place for a traditional “asado”, which is essentially an Argentinian barbeque. Everyone had told me that Argentina produces great beef, but I was not at all prepared for the juicy hunk of heaven I consumed that night. No marinade, no sauce, nothing. I can’t even explain why it was so good- there are no words, I guess. And the wine… mmmmmm the wine! It’s scrumptious. I plan on bringing back as many bottles as legally possible over Christmas.
I’ve done a fair bit of exploring throughout Palermo, which is a nice neighborhood just north of the city. It’s the biggest barrio (neighborhood) in the city. There are several big parks, bars, and restaurants in this area. The Botanical Gardens are absolutely beautiful, and full of kitties who call it home. The Japanese Gardens are lovely, too. There’s also a square called Plaza Serrano which is really cool on the weekends; There are tons of vendors selling really unique jewelry and knick-knacks. There are also several bars/clubs there that open up to local designers on the weekends, so you can literally walk into a bar, order a gin & tonic, and shop. The ONLY thing I’ve bought so far is a pair of black leather boots, but they were much-needed… I swear! The weather is a bit too chilly right now for my Rainbow sandals. I also checked out the area of Palermo called “Palermo Chico”, which is home to many embassies and huge, exclusive mansions. San Telmo is also a great little neighborhood. It’s where my TEFL school is, so I’ve gotten to see quite a bit of it. It’s a very old and bohemian area, and all of the streets and alleys are cobblestone. The buildings are very colonial, there are tons of antique shops, and it’s considered the tango hub of the city.
I’m currently searching for a decent hostel that I can stay at for a few weeks. I’m moving out of Mirka’s on Friday (so sad), and the plan was to immediately move into a shared apartment… but, I just found out that my friend Matt G. is moving to Buenos Aires in 3 weeks, and we want to live together with other foreigners and/or locals. So, I’m just going to sit tight for a few weeks. Most places looking for roommates are advertised as “available immediately”, so it shouldn’t be too tough to find something. Before moving into a hostel, however, I’m just going to stay with Lori (one of the girls in my course) for a week or so- until the last day of the course on Friday the 14th. She lives right by the school, and has an adorable little apartment that she’s more than willing to let me crash at for a bit. I owe her big time! My hostel stay afterwards should be interesting- I plan on choosing the cheapest option (but in a good neighborhood), which probably means sleeping on a bunk bed and sharing the room with 6 other people. But for $8 (US) a night, I can’t complain! So, let me recap: In the span of approximately a month and a half, I will have lived in 4 different places. Ah, yes, the things you can do when all you have is 2 suitcases and a backpack to your name…
I was going to go to Uruguay this past weekend, but decided to hold off on it. It’s a very easy weekend trip, and I will have to go anyways in the next 3 months to renew my tourist visa (you can either go to the Embassy and pay a fee to renew it, or take a charming trip to neighboring Uruguay for about the same price as the Embassy fee... no-brainer!). Additionally, I want to save my money for a couple of bigger trips I have in mind. Speaking of…
I’d like to compile a brief list of the major places I want to visit while on this continent (might as well, since I’m already down here- right? I mean, c’mon!):
1) Patagonia. Oh, mighty Patagonia. Matt and I have decided we want to make this adventure via motorcycle/scooter. Just like Che Guevara in The Motorcycle Diaries! We’d take a week or 2 and go in the summer (i.e., January-ish), seeing as the southern tip of Argentina is the closest piece of land to Antarctica. MIGHT be a little nippy if we tried going in the winter. I’m picturing us ending up like Harry and Lloyd in Dumb ‘n Dumber when they arrive in Aspen. “We’re THERE!”
2) Machu Picchu. One of the girls I’ve met down here recently got back from Machu Picchu, and her photos are absolutely breathtaking. She said there are no words to describe it, and that she’d go again in a heartbeat. I’d definitely want to do the Inca Trail as well.
3) Iguazu Falls. Over 275 waterfalls- some as high as 270 ft.- on the borders of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay. Supposedly an incredible sight, and puts Niagara Falls to shame.
4) The Amazon. If this doesn’t happen during my tenure down here, it will happen before I die.
5) Rio de Janeiro/Salvador, Brazil. Carnaval, anyone?!
6) Mendoza province. The Napa of Argentina.
7) Ciudad Perdida (“Lost City”), in Colombia. One of the largest pre-Columbian towns discovered in the Americas (built between the 11th and 14th centuries). Hidden deep in the forest and mountains, and requires a 3-day hike just to get there.
Wow, I’m in la-la land now! Mirka has Lonely Planet’s “South America on a shoestring” book, so I’ve spent several nights oohing and ahhing over the dozens of potential places to go…
This past Friday night, I had a swine flu scare. In case any of you haven’t heard, Argentina declared a national health emergency a few weeks ago for “la gripe A” (swine flu), so a lot of people here are freaking out a bit. I can’t tell if it’s as bad as people are making it out to be. There are instant hand sanitizer machines in all of the Subte stations, and signs all over the place asking people to take precautions. Anyways, Friday afternoon I started feeling pretty sick to the stomach, which was strange because I honestly have a stomach of steel. I pride myself in being able to eat the most bizarre array of foods in one sitting, and then feel fine and dandy afterwards. So this wasn’t normal. I was especially upset because everyone was going to a delicious Italian restaurant that we’d been talking about all week. So, I spent my Friday night in bed, reading a book, and feeling sorry for myself (who doesn’t when they feel sick? Let’s be honest). I was fully expecting to wake up and feel even more miserable, at which point I’d bolt straight over to the nearest public hospital where I’d surely be tested positive for “la gripe A”. But thank goodness gracious, I woke up Saturday morning feeling like a million bucks! Whew.
We’re going to a traditional Argentinian “estancia” this Saturday, which is essentially a cattle and horse ranch out in the Pampas (countryside). Now, this is not your typical Kentucky horse farm, people. It’s complete with gauchos (cowboys), an asado (barbeque), folk music, dancing, wine, possible horseback riding, etc. Estancias are very authentic to Argentina and supposedly a lot of fun to visit. We hop on a bus Saturday morning around 10am, head to the estancia (about 2 hours away), spend the day there partaking in all the activities/eating/drinking/dancing, and catch the bus home. All for 160 pesos ($42 US). It will be interesting to see, for the first time, Argentinian life outside of crazy Buenos Aires. Very excited!
Time for bed! Once I’m out of Mirka’s non-wireless-enabled apartment (God love her), I plan on updating my blog much more often. I will say, however, that her simplicity of living, and the lack of technology in her apartment- no Internet, no TV, no phone without a phone card, limited heat- has actually been refreshing. For example, last week I woke up one morning (circa 7am) to Mirka tapping on my door, saying “Carolinaaaa, no hay luz o electricidad en la casa ahora!” Translation: “Carolinaaaaa, there’s no light or electricity in the house right now!” Keep in mind, since it’s mid-winter here, it was still pitch black outside. She brought me a candle the size of my pinky, which I took to the bathroom. I somehow managed to shower, apply my makeup, get dressed, and eat- all with the assistance of my microscopic candle only. No sweat! Thinking about it later, I realized that I was, for the most part, completely unaffected by the power outage. Two months ago, this would not have been the case in my Chicago bachelorette pad. The less you have, the less you lose.
I miss you all dearly!
Abrazos y besos (Hugs and kisses).
Just 19 days ago, I was drowsily staring out the window of my tiny little cab, completely overwhelmed and disoriented as we approached the city center of Buenos Aires. It honestly feels like months ago!
The TEFL course is going great so far. There are 6 of us total, and I love everyone. To sum them up:
Alex Lopes- ½ Portuguese, ½ Swedish. Lives in Nottingham, England (where Robinhood lived!). 32 years old. Such an amazing guy. Speaks 8 languages, 6 of which he’s fluent in (English, Spanish, French, Portuguese, Swedish, and German). Too bad he’s gay!
Anna Raymond- American from Seattle. 20 years old. Super laidback and always happy. Has been in BA for 6 months and is currently dating the guy who taught her Spanish lessons here. She’s been a huge help with advice/info about the city, since she’s been here for a while.
Kelly Huseby- American from Arizona. 27 years old. Very sweet girl. Went to Northwestern and spent 8 years total in Chicago, so we’ve bonded over our beloved Windy City. She’s either going to stay in BA to teach English, or go to Santiago, Chile.
Lori Caldwell- American from Vermont. 34 years old. Absolutely hilarious and so much fun. She plans on using TEFL as a means to travel and live all over the world. Such a warm person and has sort of taken on the “mama” role in the group. She’s either going to teach in France first, or come back to BA. Hoping she comes back!
Robert Ulich- American from Los Angeles. 22 years old. Was extremely shy at first but has completely come out of his shell! Really great guy. He’s still deciding where he wants to go to teach. Fluent in Spanish so will probably stay in South America somewhere.
We’ve all gotten along so well, and it’s like we’re a little family. Not everyone is going to stay in BA when the course is over, which is sad to think about. But, that’s the expat life for ya! The course itself is really challenging. None of us had any idea how LITTLE we all know about our own language. It’s shocking, actually. And most would think that teaching their native language would be easy- HA! Try explaining words like “soul” and “empathetic” to a group of learners from varying countries. I used to think that Spanish grammar was complicated, but English grammar is a whole new can of worms. It’s really been a lot of fun learning about our native language. We also have to give practice lessons a few times a week, and it’s incredibly satisfying to see the students learning English. There are a few students in particular that we all love, because they are just so passionate about learning English. I would have to say my 2 favorites are Wilmer and Antonio; Wilmer is a 23 year-old Colombian who is studying at the University of Buenos Aires, and Antonio is an Italian visiting a friend in BA for a while. Love them!
I’ve also gotten pretty close with Mirka (host mama). While I’m of course learning a lot of Spanish from her, sometimes I wish so badly that I had the words to explain things to her. I also can’t believe she’s 69. She buzzes around the apartment and keeps busy all the time. Did I mention that she’s a yoga teacher, too? Well, she is. Her living room is her official yoga studio, and she teaches classes a few times a week. She told me this morning she’s been teaching yoga for 25 years! 25 years?! I told her that it’s only been popular in the US for the past few years (as far as I know), and she explained that this is because the universe is moving into “Aquario” (??), and that people are therefore becoming more conscious and spiritual. Or something like that. Hence, the yoga fad. She’s highly against hot yoga, which we Americans so love, because she says “it’s not real yoga”. Oh, Mirka. Hearing her on the phone is absolutely hilarious. She talks a million miles an hour and at maximum volume. Her grandchildren stayed here one night this week, and they all speak very good English. They’ve taken it in school since they were very young, and they’re 11 now. I was wearing my UK sweatshirt and asked if they’d ever heard of Kentucky, and they said “No, we haven’t heard of it. Can you show us on a map?” So we busted out one of Mirka’s decade-old encyclopedias and I pointed out where Kentucky was, along with Chicago and New York City. They said their dream was to go to Disneyworld one day, and that they are saving all their money for it. They also talked about how they love Halloween, but that it’s not really celebrated here in Argentina. They said “the kids in America are really lucky that they can trick-or-treat at night without it being dangerous” (Because, while Buenos Aires is certainly a ‘cosmopolitan’ city, it still has many undeniable 3rd world traits). I told them that if they wanted to go trick-or-treating this year, I’d go with them (and bring along a brawny male friend, too). I think this got them really excited.
Two Fridays ago, one of the English students- “Winky Juan”, as we call him (he winks after everything he says)- invited all of us back to his place for a traditional “asado”, which is essentially an Argentinian barbeque. Everyone had told me that Argentina produces great beef, but I was not at all prepared for the juicy hunk of heaven I consumed that night. No marinade, no sauce, nothing. I can’t even explain why it was so good- there are no words, I guess. And the wine… mmmmmm the wine! It’s scrumptious. I plan on bringing back as many bottles as legally possible over Christmas.
I’ve done a fair bit of exploring throughout Palermo, which is a nice neighborhood just north of the city. It’s the biggest barrio (neighborhood) in the city. There are several big parks, bars, and restaurants in this area. The Botanical Gardens are absolutely beautiful, and full of kitties who call it home. The Japanese Gardens are lovely, too. There’s also a square called Plaza Serrano which is really cool on the weekends; There are tons of vendors selling really unique jewelry and knick-knacks. There are also several bars/clubs there that open up to local designers on the weekends, so you can literally walk into a bar, order a gin & tonic, and shop. The ONLY thing I’ve bought so far is a pair of black leather boots, but they were much-needed… I swear! The weather is a bit too chilly right now for my Rainbow sandals. I also checked out the area of Palermo called “Palermo Chico”, which is home to many embassies and huge, exclusive mansions. San Telmo is also a great little neighborhood. It’s where my TEFL school is, so I’ve gotten to see quite a bit of it. It’s a very old and bohemian area, and all of the streets and alleys are cobblestone. The buildings are very colonial, there are tons of antique shops, and it’s considered the tango hub of the city.
I’m currently searching for a decent hostel that I can stay at for a few weeks. I’m moving out of Mirka’s on Friday (so sad), and the plan was to immediately move into a shared apartment… but, I just found out that my friend Matt G. is moving to Buenos Aires in 3 weeks, and we want to live together with other foreigners and/or locals. So, I’m just going to sit tight for a few weeks. Most places looking for roommates are advertised as “available immediately”, so it shouldn’t be too tough to find something. Before moving into a hostel, however, I’m just going to stay with Lori (one of the girls in my course) for a week or so- until the last day of the course on Friday the 14th. She lives right by the school, and has an adorable little apartment that she’s more than willing to let me crash at for a bit. I owe her big time! My hostel stay afterwards should be interesting- I plan on choosing the cheapest option (but in a good neighborhood), which probably means sleeping on a bunk bed and sharing the room with 6 other people. But for $8 (US) a night, I can’t complain! So, let me recap: In the span of approximately a month and a half, I will have lived in 4 different places. Ah, yes, the things you can do when all you have is 2 suitcases and a backpack to your name…
I was going to go to Uruguay this past weekend, but decided to hold off on it. It’s a very easy weekend trip, and I will have to go anyways in the next 3 months to renew my tourist visa (you can either go to the Embassy and pay a fee to renew it, or take a charming trip to neighboring Uruguay for about the same price as the Embassy fee... no-brainer!). Additionally, I want to save my money for a couple of bigger trips I have in mind. Speaking of…
I’d like to compile a brief list of the major places I want to visit while on this continent (might as well, since I’m already down here- right? I mean, c’mon!):
1) Patagonia. Oh, mighty Patagonia. Matt and I have decided we want to make this adventure via motorcycle/scooter. Just like Che Guevara in The Motorcycle Diaries! We’d take a week or 2 and go in the summer (i.e., January-ish), seeing as the southern tip of Argentina is the closest piece of land to Antarctica. MIGHT be a little nippy if we tried going in the winter. I’m picturing us ending up like Harry and Lloyd in Dumb ‘n Dumber when they arrive in Aspen. “We’re THERE!”
2) Machu Picchu. One of the girls I’ve met down here recently got back from Machu Picchu, and her photos are absolutely breathtaking. She said there are no words to describe it, and that she’d go again in a heartbeat. I’d definitely want to do the Inca Trail as well.
3) Iguazu Falls. Over 275 waterfalls- some as high as 270 ft.- on the borders of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay. Supposedly an incredible sight, and puts Niagara Falls to shame.
4) The Amazon. If this doesn’t happen during my tenure down here, it will happen before I die.
5) Rio de Janeiro/Salvador, Brazil. Carnaval, anyone?!
6) Mendoza province. The Napa of Argentina.
7) Ciudad Perdida (“Lost City”), in Colombia. One of the largest pre-Columbian towns discovered in the Americas (built between the 11th and 14th centuries). Hidden deep in the forest and mountains, and requires a 3-day hike just to get there.
Wow, I’m in la-la land now! Mirka has Lonely Planet’s “South America on a shoestring” book, so I’ve spent several nights oohing and ahhing over the dozens of potential places to go…
This past Friday night, I had a swine flu scare. In case any of you haven’t heard, Argentina declared a national health emergency a few weeks ago for “la gripe A” (swine flu), so a lot of people here are freaking out a bit. I can’t tell if it’s as bad as people are making it out to be. There are instant hand sanitizer machines in all of the Subte stations, and signs all over the place asking people to take precautions. Anyways, Friday afternoon I started feeling pretty sick to the stomach, which was strange because I honestly have a stomach of steel. I pride myself in being able to eat the most bizarre array of foods in one sitting, and then feel fine and dandy afterwards. So this wasn’t normal. I was especially upset because everyone was going to a delicious Italian restaurant that we’d been talking about all week. So, I spent my Friday night in bed, reading a book, and feeling sorry for myself (who doesn’t when they feel sick? Let’s be honest). I was fully expecting to wake up and feel even more miserable, at which point I’d bolt straight over to the nearest public hospital where I’d surely be tested positive for “la gripe A”. But thank goodness gracious, I woke up Saturday morning feeling like a million bucks! Whew.
We’re going to a traditional Argentinian “estancia” this Saturday, which is essentially a cattle and horse ranch out in the Pampas (countryside). Now, this is not your typical Kentucky horse farm, people. It’s complete with gauchos (cowboys), an asado (barbeque), folk music, dancing, wine, possible horseback riding, etc. Estancias are very authentic to Argentina and supposedly a lot of fun to visit. We hop on a bus Saturday morning around 10am, head to the estancia (about 2 hours away), spend the day there partaking in all the activities/eating/drinking/dancing, and catch the bus home. All for 160 pesos ($42 US). It will be interesting to see, for the first time, Argentinian life outside of crazy Buenos Aires. Very excited!
Time for bed! Once I’m out of Mirka’s non-wireless-enabled apartment (God love her), I plan on updating my blog much more often. I will say, however, that her simplicity of living, and the lack of technology in her apartment- no Internet, no TV, no phone without a phone card, limited heat- has actually been refreshing. For example, last week I woke up one morning (circa 7am) to Mirka tapping on my door, saying “Carolinaaaa, no hay luz o electricidad en la casa ahora!” Translation: “Carolinaaaaa, there’s no light or electricity in the house right now!” Keep in mind, since it’s mid-winter here, it was still pitch black outside. She brought me a candle the size of my pinky, which I took to the bathroom. I somehow managed to shower, apply my makeup, get dressed, and eat- all with the assistance of my microscopic candle only. No sweat! Thinking about it later, I realized that I was, for the most part, completely unaffected by the power outage. Two months ago, this would not have been the case in my Chicago bachelorette pad. The less you have, the less you lose.
I miss you all dearly!
Abrazos y besos (Hugs and kisses).
