Thursday, September 24, 2009

Mir geht es gut

Matt, Chris, & Store Guy at the Sunday feria

Chris & I doing a tango pose in front of my favorite Che mural

Cool graffitti in San Telmo


Me encanta!


One of the roomies, Fede, playing the bandoneon at a concert


Best steaks we've ever had!


El Ateneo, an old theatre that's now a big bookstore


I've been in BsAs for over 2 months now! Wow. That sounds like quite a long time, but then again, it doesn't at all. I've done so many things and have already established so many great friendships. And it's still only the beginning...

Teaching is going really well. I average about 18 hours a week right now, but it feels like a lot more. About half of my classes are at the actual company offices, so I do a lot of shuffling in between. I can walk to pretty much all of them, too; I take the Subte to one of the companies in an area called "Once" (pronounced 'ohn-say'), where I have a particulary interesting student: Adrian Cambours. Oh, Adrian, Adrian, Adrian. First of all, he's got a seriously bushy beard and moustache, causing him to look more like Osama Bin Laden than an Argentine. Secondly, he chain smokes throughout the ENTIRE class. In his chair. In a small room. With no windows. With me sitting a foot across from him. Our lessons go a little something like this... Me: "What do (cough cough) you like to do (cough cough) on the weekends (cough)?" Adrian: "(puff puff) I like to go to the movies, (puff), I like to go out with friends, (puff puff), and I like to eat at restaurants.... (Puff)." Needless to say, I always bust out of the room promptly at 1:30, sucking for fresh air and apologizing repeatedly to my lungs.

Other than Adrian the Chimney, all my other students are pretty tame and harmless. I had back-to-back lessons with 2 different men harshly critiquing the US’s rebellion of using the metric system (I have to say, I don't disagree with them). We use Fahrenheit, everyone else uses Celsius. We use miles, everyone else uses kilometers. We use pounds, everyone else uses kilograms. And the list goes on. As my student Rodolfo put it, “It’s simple. 0 degrees Celsius is freezing. 100 degrees boils water. Simple. Why do Americans use such a confusing system?” Hmmm… good question, Rodolfo, good question.

How ‘bout that US Open?! I think I watched more of it down here than I ever did back in the US. They really love tennis here, which is great. Not only was it fun to see an Argentine win the tournament (despite beating my #1 man Roj), but I got to see an old UK teammate (Jesse Witten) advance to the third round and play an awesome match against Novak Djokovic. It was pretty surreal watching him on "ESPN+" down here in Argentina, playing against the #4 player in the world. There were also a dozen or so other former teammates in NYC cheering him on, so I'd go nuts every time they zoomed in on his "Kentucky Tennis"-t-shirt-clad posse. He lost the match in 4 sets, but definitely made Djokovic work for it. Way to represent, Jesse :)

I had the most delicious steak of my life a few weeks ago. Hands down. We'd heard about this parrilla called La Cabrera, so we decided to try it one Friday night. After waiting for an hour, we sat down, ordered a few bottles of Malbec and excitedly scoured the menu. Wiping the drool from my mouth, I decided to go with a tenderloin that had ham, cheese, and sundried tomato wrapped on the inside. I almost died when the waiter put the plate in front of me; The thing was the size of a small baby (I, of course, polished off almost all of it... shocker). But beyond the size of it, it was the most scrumptiously delicious hunk of meat I've ever swallowed. I will definitely be going back soon. We also went to an amazing Indian restaurant last weekend, called Bangalore. We were all pretty excited to finally eat spicy food again (Argentines are NOT big on spices/spicy food- most places don't even have pepper on the table!). However, I saw "pumpkin curry" on the menu and was immediately sold, even though I knew it wouldn't be the least bit spicy. Great choice. I love Indian food.

Two Saturdays ago, we went to a popular American bar called "El Alamo", because we wanted to catch a few of the big football games that we knew they'd be showing. The intention was to only watch the Michigan-Notre Dame game, but we ended up staying for the USC-Ohio State game as well. The bar was packed with Americans! Strangely, there were a lot of Michigan fans. It was pretty hilarious watching the games, because the bar somehow gets them through ABC. Being an American channel, this also means that all the commercials are American, too (duh). So every time a commercial for, say, TACO BELL came on, there would be unanimous "ooooohhhhhh" 's throughout the bar. Yep, T-Bell is non-existent here. What a tease! But, thankfully, I've only had a handful of serious Crunchwrap Supreme cravings. Not bad!

My German roommate, Chris, has been teaching me some German. Difficult is an understatement! Here are a few of the things I've learned so far:


Wie geht es dir? - How are you?
Mir geht es gut - I'm good
Wie heisst du? - What's your name?
Ich heisse Caroline - My name's Caroline
Guten morgen - Good morning (*My personal fave, 'cause it's super easy. Sounds just like it's spelled*)
Hast du lust rennen zu gehen? - Do you want to run?

I won't even try to phonetically spell out the pronunciations of these words. Way too hard. However, learning a completely new language like this makes me appreciate and understand how my students feel when they have trouble pronouncing English words. For example, Chris was trying to explain to me yesterday the difference in sounds between the German letters ö and ü. He kept saying them over and over, one after the other, with a face implying "How do you not hear the difference? It's soooo clear"; All the while I'm sitting there, cracking up and shaking my head, because the difference in sounds just seems so incredibly subtle to me that I could not, for the life of me, pronounce the 2 letters properly. Inevitably, I got frustrated and demanded that we end our German lesson for the day. AND SO, today, one of my students expressed his concern for the similar pronunciations of "live" and "leave", which, to a native English speaker, is simple and clear. I immediately thought back to my frustrating German lesson yesterday and decided to spend as much time as needed on this. I showed him the difference in mouth positions, and dramatically said "liiiiiiiiiiive" and "leeeeeeeeave" at least 30 times each. In the end, he got it. Success! I then went over some of the many slang terms for the word "prostitute"... his idea, not mine!


I was thinking today, and realized something: In the 2 months that I've been here, I have felt 100% welcomed. Not once have I felt inferior or been yelled at, ridiculed, mocked, or made fun of. I know I stand out as being foreign, and I'm definitely not fluent in Spanish yet. I often have to say "como?" (translation: "what?") 2 or 3 times before I fully understand people. Not only are people patient with me, but they're usually super curious about me, where I'm from, what I'm doing here, how long I'm staying, etc. It's such a great feeling. People are also very quick to give me advice and suggest places to go and visit. They're happy and proud that I chose their country, of all places, to live, and always extend their help in any way they can. Maybe I'm being a bit harsh to my home country, but I can't help but think that this is not usually the case in the US. "Go back to where you came from" is something I've heard too many times, which is really unfortunate. If someone here told me to go back where I came from, I'd probably do just that, and leave with a very bitter attitude towards Argentina. I think Americans should be incredibly proud of the fact that we have the kind of country that attracts such diversity.

I felt very humbled and proud the other day. Chris was talking about the culture of American universities, as he lived in Athens, GA for a year working for Habitat for Humanity. Athens is the home of the University of Georgia, and is arguably one of the best college towns in the country. He was completely blown away with the campus, culture, and college sports spirit. He said, "It's like a small city. Everyone becomes a part of the university, and feels proud to say they go there. We don't have that." (UGA does have an amazing campus, by the way. I think it's the best of all the SEC schools.) As he was enthusiastically describing his love for our college culture, I realized that I'd never even considered the fact that no other country in the world has it. When I asked him if his university in Berlin has any sports teams, he laughed and replied, "You can play volleyball on Friday afternoons." (Whoa... killer, man) I was honestly shocked to realize just how privileged we Americans are to have such incomparable college experiences (amongst other things). Perhaps I've been very ignorant and naive to think about this only now, but hey, better late than never, right?

So Monday was the official first day of spring! This also meant a holiday for most people. I went for a run on my usual route in Puerto Madero, as the weather was beautiful, and there were more people out than I'd ever seen. It was like dodging bullets while I was running. Now, I realize it was the "first day of spring", but it's not like the weather was any different than it's been; In fact, it was no different. Have people been hibernating, just because it was "winter"? Or maybe it's just like that on every holiday? Hmmmm... Either way, it's officially SPRING, baby!

I'm going to start volunteering next week. There's a small community center in La Boca (BA's poorest barrio) that runs programs for both children and adults, and it's one of the few places that doesn't charge a fee for volunteers (sorry, but there's something about 'paying to volunteer' that really baffles me). It seems like I'll be doing things like teaching English, playing sports, and assisting with fundraisers. I'm excited to help!

With all of the amazingness that I'm experiencing down here, I'm very sad that I'll be missing out on a special event next weekend: The wedding of 2 of my best friends, Max & Kristina. I've known these two for over 10 years, and they've been dating for 8 of them. I have honestly never met two people more in love and more perfect for one another. I love them both to death and can't wait to see the photos from their big day. Max has already promised to send the video as soon as it's available, too :) Incredibly bummed to be missing out, but so excited for them. Love you mucho, Maxie-poo and Kris!

The weekend after Max & Kris get hitched (October 10), 6 of us are going to a small town in central Argentina for Oktoberfest! Officially, it's called "La Fiesta Nacional de La Cerveza" (translation: The National Party of Beer). It's in a town called Villa General Belgrano, which is about an hour south of Córdoba, another big Argentinian city. We'll be taking an overnight, 10-hour bus ride on Friday night, and then staying until Monday night. Can't wait!

Once again (I know I always say this, but it's true), I love and miss you all so much. I don't want to speak too soon, but I think one of my old teammates and good friends, Danielle (AKA D-Peezy), is coming to visit over Thanksgiving! I'm beyond excited. I hope everyone's enjoying the start of fall, my favorite season back home. Muchos besos y abrazos!

CTW

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

New apartment, new roomies, new job...


Mural of Che Guevara in San Telmo



Street tango


Mmmm... Malbec



2 of the roomies, Fer and Fede

At the Saturday farmer's market, across the street from our apartment


Christian (German), Lori, me, and Erin (American)


Sunday "feria" in San Telmo




Gaucho show at the estancia

Well, many things have happened in the last few weeks! I am officially in a new apartment (after living with Lori for a week), I finished my TEFL course (yay!), Matt arrived to BA a few days ago, and I got my first teaching job!
I had an interview last week with an English institute called Brooklyn Bridge, and they told me they'd most likely have a few classes to offer me. They called me the next day and asked me to come in for a training session and to discuss some classes they'd like me to teach. After all was said and done- I taught my first two lessons today! It was actually really fun. The first was a woman from Banco de Valores, and the second was a man from Bristol Myers Squibb. My second class was 4 hours long! It was only supposed to be 2, but I ended up filling in for another teacher who couldn't make the class. I must say, 4 hours sure flew by. The guy looooooved to talk. I'd say he's at a high intermediate level, and I feel like most of the time was spent listening to him talk and correcting his errors when necessary. I only have a few classes right now, but my schedule will gradually build up. I think I'll be teaching one class for Price Waterhouse Cooper, teaching their executives how to communicate via phone and email to people in the United States. Most of my classes will be similar to this- involving me teaching company execs. The companies hire the institutes, and the institutes hire teachers like me. I know Brooklyn Bridge also works with Johnson & Johnson, Procter & Gamble, Novartis, and several other biggies. In the end, I'm hoping to secure 25-30 hours of teaching per week. I'm also going to send out some emails to a few tennis clubs in the city, and see what kinds of coaching opportunities they may have. I'm not sure how willing they'll be to hire an American female without Spanish fluency (yet), but so much of coaching is about showing, as opposed to explaining, so who knows?!

I'm loving the new apartment! Lori and I came to see it about 3 weeks ago, and instantly fell in love. It's a big old apartment in San Telmo, with 4 bedrooms total, 2 balconies, a big living room, a cute and spacious kitchen, and 2 bathrooms. Lori and I were sharing one of the big rooms, which has 2 single beds. She left Buenos Aires this past Monday, and then Matt arrived on Tuesday- taking over her bed in the room. I'm not sure how long we'll be sharing a room together, but let's just say that for the price we're paying, I'll do it for as long as possible! The other inhabitants of the apartment include Erin, an American girl working remotely for a marketing firm; Christian, a German guy studying here for a year; Fernanda (and Federico, her live-in boyfriend), a Chilean girl studying cinematography. Lori, Christian, and I cooked a delicious pasta meal one of our first nights here and chatted over a few bottles of wine and beer. What a small world- Chris is good friends with a girl who used to play tennis for Georgia, who I know as well! I never cease to be amazed with the smallness of this world. Needless to say, he's a very cool guy. His family is from Berlin, and he- like everyone else I've met here- offered for me to stay with his family if I ever want to visit his country. Hmmm... may have to take him up on that. Fernanda and Federico ("Fer" y "Fede") are great. Fer is an amazing artist, and Fede is an amazing musician. He plays an instrument called the "bandoneon", which is like a very old accordian. He often practices for a few hours a day, which is simply glorious to listen to. The American girl, Erin, has a pretty fabulous gig going on. She works for a creative marketing firm out of the US, and is able to live wherever she wants, as long as there's a good Internet connection. She's been bouncing around Latin America for the past few months, and is leaving tomorrow for none other than my beloved South Africa. And last, but certainly not least, the owner of the apartment, Marina, is amazing! She is like a free Spanish teacher, and insists that we all speak Spanish most of the time. She frequently comes by to stock up the cabinet with spices, bring fresh flowers, clean, or just hang out with us. She's always bringing brochures and giving us advice on things to do and see. I couldn't think of a better "house mom" to have.

Every Saturday, across the street from our apartment, there's a big farmer's market. Matt and I went this past Saturday, and bought quite the assortment of fresh goodies: chorizo, salami, ham, mortadel, queso fresco, French rolls, eggs, lettuce, cherry tomatoes, red & green peppers, corn, strawberries, apples, oranges, and bananas. Whew! It's all so amazingly fresh and delicious. And every Sunday, there's a "feria" here in San Telmo- a flea market, essentially- that runs about 15 blocks along the street right next to ours, ending at a square in the middle of San Telmo. Perfecto! It's quite possibly the most amazing market ever- especially for jewelry junkies like myself. My jewelry may need its own suitcase soon. There are also street bands and performers all over the place, and they're a blast to watch. I've discovered that it's just not possible to watch them without feeling a strong and overwhelming urge to dance. There are also tango dancers, of course. I'm not sure how I feel about tango, to be honest. I love watching it, but it's not the kind of dance that makes you want to get up and get going. I definitely want to learn a move or two, but I wouldn't say I'm jumpin' in my boots to become the next San Telmo feria street performer. Not to mention that there are so many other types of dances here that really get me going.

Speaking of dancing, I'd like to take a second to mention the complete and utter craziness of the Buenos Aires nightlife. Let me give you a generally accepted going-out itinerary:

7-10pm-ish: Nap
11-ish: Dinner/drinks at a restaurant or someone's house
1-ish: Lowkey bar
3-ish: Make your way to a club
8am-ish: Leave the club after watching the sun rise, perhaps get breakfast

No, I'm not exaggerating. I personally haven't quite made it to 8am yet; 6:30 is as far as I've gotten. The clubs here are insane, too. The nice thing, though, is that Argentinians aren't huge binge drinkers (unlike Americans). You rarely see anyone belligerant or out of control, and it's generally frowned upon to get absolutely smashed. Interestingly enough, however, it's completely legal to walk the streets with open bottles. On Matt's first day here, we picked up a few bottles of Quilmes (the Bud Light of Argentina) and sipped on them as we walked around. Smoking weed is also a common practice in the streets. I'll often walk past people on a major street and catch whiffs of Mary Jane all over the place. Speaking of, Argentina just decriminalized small-scale marijuana use, meaning that it's perfectly legal to enjoy a spliff or 2, as long as you're not dealing it in large amounts.

We went to an estancia a few weeks ago, which is a traditional Argentinian ranch in the countryside, and where the infamous "gaucho" originated. We rode horses, watched folk dancing and tango, ate massive amounts of beef and drank loads of wine, and watched the gauchos perform a show on their horses. The beef here is everything I expected it to be and more- pure deliciousness. I almost never ate steak in the States, but now I eat it at least twice a week! The weather here is amazing. This past week it was about 75 degrees and sunny every single day. And it's not even spring yet! Splendid.

That's all I have for now! Hopefully I'll continue racking up more teaching hours, and perhaps get a chance to coach some tennis down here. Speaking of- the US Open started on Monday and I was EXTREMELY happy to discover that we have full coverage of it here! YES. I'm loving my life down here more and more each day, and am making so many friends from varying backgrounds. There's simply nothing more fun than establishing a group of friends who all have such interesting and ambitious life stories. However, I will continue missing and loving my good ole' friends back in the US of A.

Sending my love to you all! xx

CTW