Walking around Belgrano
That's right, folks... Reppin' the KY in BA!
Empanadas= Pillows of heaven
Walking around Palermo
El Cementario de la Recoleta
The beginning of my BA car obsessionHola from Buenos Aires!
I cannot believe I’ve only been here for 4 days. It feels like weeks! I feel like I’ve done so much, when in reality I’ve mostly just explored my new surroundings. I honestly don’t have words to describe this place. It’s such an interesting mix of things- the influence of many European countries is certainly recognizable, but it’s still very South American. It is simply splendid.
There is a quote I’ve always loved, and it pretty much sums up these past few days: “To awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world.” (by Freya Stark) Although I know and have been connected to several people in Buenos Aires, I wanted nothing more than to take my first few days here and explore completely solo. I even resisted the urge to bust out the iPod while walking miles upon miles of untracked territory. I want to hear, see, smell, taste, and feel everything!
The very first thing I noticed about BA (noted on the drive from the airport) is that drivers here SON LOCOS. They’re crazy. I thought Chicago was bad- nuh uh. Not even comparable. For example, 4-way stops here? No stop signs. They’re nonexistent. It seems to be a sort of “roll on through and hope no one else does the same” type of mentality. This means that as a pedestrian, you just have to be extra careful.
Observation #2. The cars! Oh, my sweet dear baby Jesus… I am highly amused by them, and will continue to be. They’re the cutest, chubbiest, most hilarious-looking things ever. If I ever hear one of my friends in the US complain about their car, I will have to remind them that their “crappy” little 1979 Chevy Cavalier would be a high-rollin’ throne on wheels here. I see quite a lot of American brands like Ford and Chevrolet around, but it’s strange- the types are nothing like I’ve seen in the US. Either way, the automobiles of Buenos Aires are downright sweet.
Observation #3: We are in the middle of “winter”, and their “winters” are a joke. During the day, it’s anywhere from 50-60 degrees (Fahrenheit), and at night it’s generally in the 40’s. Are you kiddin’ me?? This is where I look back to my beloved Chicago and say “Thank you, dear city of Chi-tizzle, for exposing me to your inhumanely frigid winters of pure misery”, because I look at all these poor portenos (residents of Buenos Aires) in their goose-down North Face coats and silently chuckle. Also, as most know, I was blessed with overly-excited sweat glands, which means that this type of weather is perfecto for being able to walk around comfortably without breaking a sweat. We’ll worry about the hot and humid summers later…
Observation #4: The men are EXTREMELY vocal to female passers-by. Everything from “Que bonita!” to bus drivers holding up their crowded buses in order to loudly make kissy noises at you on the street… you name it, and it’s done. It can be a bit overwhelming, but it is what it is, so I’ll usually just smile and say “gracias”, or simply ignore them. Even though it’s done to most women, I have to say that it’s quite the ego-booster!
Observation #5: Argentines are some of the friendliest, most welcoming people I’ve ever met. I was walking around with my host mom on Friday, and at almost every shop/kiosk we passed, she or the kiosk worker would briefly stop and exchange a few words. Everyone is so willing and patient to help or just say something nice. As I was walking to the bus stop this morning, at least 3 people said “Buen dia!” as I passed them. I also met up with an old friend last night who has been living in BA for several years now- Bryant Hillas. We met in South Africa, where we both lived for 2 years, and our families became pretty close and have remained in touch ever since. His mom is Argentine and since he’s lived here for so long, he basically is too. Anyways- after a few cervezas, we went our separate ways on the Subte, getting home around 9:30 or so. As I was drinking my coffee this morning, Mirka told me that she got a call from “a boy named Bryant” last night around 10 to make sure I got home safely. How did he get her number?! I never gave it to him! I am still baffled as to how he found it, but it felt so nice to know that he clearly went out of his way to make sure I arrived home okay.
Observation #6: The sidewalks might as well be obstacle courses. I’ve almost face-planted at least 97 times now. But I must say- all the dipping and tripping makes for quite the leg workout, because my calves are completely blasted right now. Watch me come back from BA with really lean, toned legs… “Hey Caroline, your legs look great! What’s your secret?” “Thanks! It’s called the Buenos Aires Sidewalk Diet.” I can’t even imagine what it’s like for mothers with strollers… I feel horribly sorry for them! It doesn’t really bother me (minus the embarrassing almost-face-plants); You just have to be a bit more aware of where you’re walking. OH- and there’s a fair amount of dog poop too. I was de-virginized by it last night when I took my eyes off my path for a split second, skimming the top of my white Chuck Taylors over a huge pile of gold. But, as Bryant put it, “it wasn’t fresh”, so not much damage was done.
Observation #7: My Spanish has already improved dramatically since arriving. I remember walking onto the plane for Buenos Aires and freaking out a bit, because it was like I was walking into their country already… yet we were still in Dallas. Spanish was everywhere, and I didn’t feel at all ready to bust out my Americanized, broken Spanish. But thanks to sitting next to an Argentine futbol (soccer) player who made me feel completely at ease, I opened up a bit. And living with Mirka, who speaks zero English, has helped a bunch too. Mirka loves to talk, talk, talk. I’m becoming more and more impressed with myself, because I’ll listen intently to a 10-minute schpeel of hers and realize afterwards that, “Holy crap, I (mostly) understood all of what she said!” She’s also very patient with me, even when I have to awkwardly bust out the English-Spanish dictionary.
Observation #8: It has been immensely satisfying to accomplish even the smallest of things. It makes me realize how much we take for granted in our home countries. First and foremost, figuring out the bus system here is like rocket science. It’s hard to explain why it’s so confusing, but, just trust me- it is. When I successfully boarded and exited a bus for the first time, ending up where I wanted to be, I felt like jumping up and down. I went to a café on Saturday for a coffee and croissant. I was feeling good, feeling in control… and then realized I didn’t know if and how much I had to tip (in the US you generally tip much more and for many more things). Uh oh. To tip? Not to tip? I ended up leaving him a peso or 2, and found out later that it’s customary to just leave 8% or so. So I did okay! YES. I also had to buy a plug adapter for my laptop the other day, which is confusing in and of itself. Imagine trying to explain this in Spanish. After popping my head inside at least 9 kiosks, I finally found one that had what I needed. Success! And THEN- are you ready for this? Yesterday… I bought myself a local CELL PHONE! I feel so proud just typing that out. You can imagine my pride walking out of Claro (the Verizon Wireless of Argentina) with a brand spankin’ new red and white celly telly. I may or may not have used more hand gestures than actual Spanish words, but hey, I got the job done. I just bought the cheapest phone they had, “sin plan” (without a plan), and will periodically buy cards with credit on them in order to call people. Turns out to be very cheap. I still don’t know whether or not I can text message on it… hmmm…
Observation #9: There is so much energy in this city, yet the people are incredibly laidback and seem to really enjoy each other and life in general. They walk slower, they eat slower, everything’s a little slower. Now, the flip side of this is that Argentines’ sense of punctuality is very lax. Giving an hour with “-ish” on the end is very common, and no one seems to feel bad about being late. Other expats probably get annoyed with this, but what can you do? Nothing. It’s like trying to get Americans to stop watching reality TV.
Other observations include: Lots of smokers (cigarettes here are dirt cheap), amazing food (a lot of Italian influence and their beef is dee-lish), very attractive people, superb vino (Malbec, to be specific), many stray dogs that are incredibly street-savvy (Honest to God, I saw one look both ways upon reaching a 4-way stop), and much more.
If you can’t tell, I am really enjoying it here. In fact, I love it. It hasn’t been easy and it will continue to be a challenge, especially as I’m learning Spanish, but that’s the thrill of it. It also makes you both appreciate and critique so many aspects of your home country and customs, and who you are as a person. And no matter how happy I may be in this faraway country, I will always be missing everyone back in the States! I especially did last night, when I called my mom and she informed me that my sister was in a car accident with some friends. The car flipped about 4 times and is totaled. She is okay for the most part, but it’s hard not being able to call her right away.
I am teaching my first English practice lesson tomorrow to a group of intermediate Spanish-speakers, so must start planning for it. Wish me luck! I miss and love you all so much, and will definitely keep the posts coming as often as I can. Hope you’re all enjoying them so far. Keep in touch, my loves!
Hasta luego!
I cannot believe I’ve only been here for 4 days. It feels like weeks! I feel like I’ve done so much, when in reality I’ve mostly just explored my new surroundings. I honestly don’t have words to describe this place. It’s such an interesting mix of things- the influence of many European countries is certainly recognizable, but it’s still very South American. It is simply splendid.
There is a quote I’ve always loved, and it pretty much sums up these past few days: “To awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world.” (by Freya Stark) Although I know and have been connected to several people in Buenos Aires, I wanted nothing more than to take my first few days here and explore completely solo. I even resisted the urge to bust out the iPod while walking miles upon miles of untracked territory. I want to hear, see, smell, taste, and feel everything!
The very first thing I noticed about BA (noted on the drive from the airport) is that drivers here SON LOCOS. They’re crazy. I thought Chicago was bad- nuh uh. Not even comparable. For example, 4-way stops here? No stop signs. They’re nonexistent. It seems to be a sort of “roll on through and hope no one else does the same” type of mentality. This means that as a pedestrian, you just have to be extra careful.
Observation #2. The cars! Oh, my sweet dear baby Jesus… I am highly amused by them, and will continue to be. They’re the cutest, chubbiest, most hilarious-looking things ever. If I ever hear one of my friends in the US complain about their car, I will have to remind them that their “crappy” little 1979 Chevy Cavalier would be a high-rollin’ throne on wheels here. I see quite a lot of American brands like Ford and Chevrolet around, but it’s strange- the types are nothing like I’ve seen in the US. Either way, the automobiles of Buenos Aires are downright sweet.
Observation #3: We are in the middle of “winter”, and their “winters” are a joke. During the day, it’s anywhere from 50-60 degrees (Fahrenheit), and at night it’s generally in the 40’s. Are you kiddin’ me?? This is where I look back to my beloved Chicago and say “Thank you, dear city of Chi-tizzle, for exposing me to your inhumanely frigid winters of pure misery”, because I look at all these poor portenos (residents of Buenos Aires) in their goose-down North Face coats and silently chuckle. Also, as most know, I was blessed with overly-excited sweat glands, which means that this type of weather is perfecto for being able to walk around comfortably without breaking a sweat. We’ll worry about the hot and humid summers later…
Observation #4: The men are EXTREMELY vocal to female passers-by. Everything from “Que bonita!” to bus drivers holding up their crowded buses in order to loudly make kissy noises at you on the street… you name it, and it’s done. It can be a bit overwhelming, but it is what it is, so I’ll usually just smile and say “gracias”, or simply ignore them. Even though it’s done to most women, I have to say that it’s quite the ego-booster!
Observation #5: Argentines are some of the friendliest, most welcoming people I’ve ever met. I was walking around with my host mom on Friday, and at almost every shop/kiosk we passed, she or the kiosk worker would briefly stop and exchange a few words. Everyone is so willing and patient to help or just say something nice. As I was walking to the bus stop this morning, at least 3 people said “Buen dia!” as I passed them. I also met up with an old friend last night who has been living in BA for several years now- Bryant Hillas. We met in South Africa, where we both lived for 2 years, and our families became pretty close and have remained in touch ever since. His mom is Argentine and since he’s lived here for so long, he basically is too. Anyways- after a few cervezas, we went our separate ways on the Subte, getting home around 9:30 or so. As I was drinking my coffee this morning, Mirka told me that she got a call from “a boy named Bryant” last night around 10 to make sure I got home safely. How did he get her number?! I never gave it to him! I am still baffled as to how he found it, but it felt so nice to know that he clearly went out of his way to make sure I arrived home okay.
Observation #6: The sidewalks might as well be obstacle courses. I’ve almost face-planted at least 97 times now. But I must say- all the dipping and tripping makes for quite the leg workout, because my calves are completely blasted right now. Watch me come back from BA with really lean, toned legs… “Hey Caroline, your legs look great! What’s your secret?” “Thanks! It’s called the Buenos Aires Sidewalk Diet.” I can’t even imagine what it’s like for mothers with strollers… I feel horribly sorry for them! It doesn’t really bother me (minus the embarrassing almost-face-plants); You just have to be a bit more aware of where you’re walking. OH- and there’s a fair amount of dog poop too. I was de-virginized by it last night when I took my eyes off my path for a split second, skimming the top of my white Chuck Taylors over a huge pile of gold. But, as Bryant put it, “it wasn’t fresh”, so not much damage was done.
Observation #7: My Spanish has already improved dramatically since arriving. I remember walking onto the plane for Buenos Aires and freaking out a bit, because it was like I was walking into their country already… yet we were still in Dallas. Spanish was everywhere, and I didn’t feel at all ready to bust out my Americanized, broken Spanish. But thanks to sitting next to an Argentine futbol (soccer) player who made me feel completely at ease, I opened up a bit. And living with Mirka, who speaks zero English, has helped a bunch too. Mirka loves to talk, talk, talk. I’m becoming more and more impressed with myself, because I’ll listen intently to a 10-minute schpeel of hers and realize afterwards that, “Holy crap, I (mostly) understood all of what she said!” She’s also very patient with me, even when I have to awkwardly bust out the English-Spanish dictionary.
Observation #8: It has been immensely satisfying to accomplish even the smallest of things. It makes me realize how much we take for granted in our home countries. First and foremost, figuring out the bus system here is like rocket science. It’s hard to explain why it’s so confusing, but, just trust me- it is. When I successfully boarded and exited a bus for the first time, ending up where I wanted to be, I felt like jumping up and down. I went to a café on Saturday for a coffee and croissant. I was feeling good, feeling in control… and then realized I didn’t know if and how much I had to tip (in the US you generally tip much more and for many more things). Uh oh. To tip? Not to tip? I ended up leaving him a peso or 2, and found out later that it’s customary to just leave 8% or so. So I did okay! YES. I also had to buy a plug adapter for my laptop the other day, which is confusing in and of itself. Imagine trying to explain this in Spanish. After popping my head inside at least 9 kiosks, I finally found one that had what I needed. Success! And THEN- are you ready for this? Yesterday… I bought myself a local CELL PHONE! I feel so proud just typing that out. You can imagine my pride walking out of Claro (the Verizon Wireless of Argentina) with a brand spankin’ new red and white celly telly. I may or may not have used more hand gestures than actual Spanish words, but hey, I got the job done. I just bought the cheapest phone they had, “sin plan” (without a plan), and will periodically buy cards with credit on them in order to call people. Turns out to be very cheap. I still don’t know whether or not I can text message on it… hmmm…
Observation #9: There is so much energy in this city, yet the people are incredibly laidback and seem to really enjoy each other and life in general. They walk slower, they eat slower, everything’s a little slower. Now, the flip side of this is that Argentines’ sense of punctuality is very lax. Giving an hour with “-ish” on the end is very common, and no one seems to feel bad about being late. Other expats probably get annoyed with this, but what can you do? Nothing. It’s like trying to get Americans to stop watching reality TV.
Other observations include: Lots of smokers (cigarettes here are dirt cheap), amazing food (a lot of Italian influence and their beef is dee-lish), very attractive people, superb vino (Malbec, to be specific), many stray dogs that are incredibly street-savvy (Honest to God, I saw one look both ways upon reaching a 4-way stop), and much more.
If you can’t tell, I am really enjoying it here. In fact, I love it. It hasn’t been easy and it will continue to be a challenge, especially as I’m learning Spanish, but that’s the thrill of it. It also makes you both appreciate and critique so many aspects of your home country and customs, and who you are as a person. And no matter how happy I may be in this faraway country, I will always be missing everyone back in the States! I especially did last night, when I called my mom and she informed me that my sister was in a car accident with some friends. The car flipped about 4 times and is totaled. She is okay for the most part, but it’s hard not being able to call her right away.
I am teaching my first English practice lesson tomorrow to a group of intermediate Spanish-speakers, so must start planning for it. Wish me luck! I miss and love you all so much, and will definitely keep the posts coming as often as I can. Hope you’re all enjoying them so far. Keep in touch, my loves!
Hasta luego!
Dude- good story. Glad to hear you are enjoying it there. When I was 26, I moved to Puerto Rico for two years and it was one of the best experiences of my life. I am sure you will have a blast there. I'll be in Naples in November. Maybe I'll see you then. Peace!
ReplyDeleteCousin Andy